Kabhi Jambughoda Bhi Aake Dekho !
Message for husbands : When it is a NO for the latest movie , a bigger NO for that favourite sizzler in her favourite restaurant , when it is a NO , NO, NO even for shopping , then get ready ---She needs a change . Whisk her away for a small weekend . Away , near home but away from home .
Message for wives: The minute he suggests this , pack your bags and get into the car even before he honks .Forget your laundry , milkman , maid , garden , grocery shopping , everything . They can wait . But this impulsive planning won’t .
So -------- GET , SET …..GO.
Behind every successful man there is a woman –100 % true. Behind every successful ( not always but we can always hope ) travel writer ( if I can call myself that ) there are two men , one who clicks the photographs and the other who aligns the pics and the prose to give the final shape to the article .Thanks to Asim , my husband and my son-in –law Varun . Itna toh banta hai. ( I still need their services , you see )
People living in and around Vadodara has this lovely get away called Jambughoda—forest reserve and sanctuary . Combine it with half a day at Champaner , declared a world heritage sight . You just need two days ---it will be funfilled with relaxation and togetherness.
About the location , direction , road , Google map will help you .
The rains and winter are appropriate times .Sitting in your cottage verandah with an empty mind and watching the rain is something that we hardly get to do . The hotel will provide you with that hot cup of coffee plus the bhajias for your children , or else drive out , there are road side bhajia stalls , which serve you the same , hot and tasty ( and much cheaper too). Or , in the winter , just wrap a shawl around and laze with the sun on your back and your long-time-not-read paper back in your hand . Nights you can hear the pitter patter of rain drops or feel the still of night in the forest . Pin drop silence with occasional sound of a passing vehicle faraway . It is as if there is only you in the world.
The roads are good , winding , forests on either side , tall trees ,the green foliage is so cooling to your eyes and your system .Now and again you will pass small villages with playing children , a one room school building , tube well by the road , cattle , a shanty shop, a shepherd with his flock ,his colourful turban five times bigger than his head, women folk standing and watching your car pass by .
Jambughoda Forest
Places to stay : - You have government Eco –Tourism centres . They are at Dhanpuri, Bhat and , Targol. They are comparatively cheaper and therefore very affordable. Cottages –both A/C and Non A/C , but be ready for ordinary bed , bedding , bath and cleanliness .Carry a little of bed linen if you are particularly finicky . They are not the stuff you see on the TV –India’s top ten hotels etc. etc. But they are clean .Situated on hillsides you can see green treetops , monkeys , peacocks and bird of different species . For this you have to be an early riser .
Their food is simple and whole some with the Gujarati flavor . You get Gujarati Chai , Poha , Ringan – Bataka ni shak , Makai roti , Khichdi , Kadhi .Menu remains 90% same ,only the sabji changes. Again , all relatively cheap . Doesn’t pinch your pocket . Other places food is costly, variety is more. But ofcourse cost is a relative term. 4 to 5 luxury hotels . Vananchal is on the higher end , but good , if you have children -5 to 15 years of age .There is a swimming pool, rope ladders , swing bridge ,merry –go-round , horse riding, trekking facilities , good restaurant and more. Caravan Sarayi is on the same lines , but much quieter , more close to nature at the foot of a hill. No concrete rooms but caravans to house you with all the modern facilities .
Caravan sarai Lawn
The Maharajah’s palace , a part of which has been converted into a resort is coolly shaded with a lot of trees , peaceful all around . More suitable for people who want to be on their own. You can hear the sounds of the jungle uninterrupted.You order and the food is freshly cooked for you.
Jambughoda Palace
Every place has guides who will take you trekking into the jungles , morning and evening . You can walk by the edge of the water of the dam . Birds you get to see are hornbill , teel , cranes , black ducks . It is fun walking in the jungles . The peace and the quiet is all pervading . It is safe too. It is safe but a guide is a must , other wise losing the way is quite possible .
Are you the religious type ? One who doesn’t forget his hanuman chalisa once a day . Then ‘ Jhand Hanuman ‘ ( well known) is just 12 kms away . Again winding , rough roads between forests that you will find refreshing, provided you ignore the bumpy ride . ‘ Jhand Hanuman ‘ is 21 feet , carved on the wall of a hill , why it is there and who created it, I did not get the answer . You will like it . A religious visit or a piece of sculpture which ever way you look at it you will not regret the ride after the visit . Also because there are two more epic old sites to see.
Few steps further is the ‘ Draupadi Kuva ‘ ( well), created by Lord Arjun ’s bow when Draupadi was thirsty and there was no water to be found in the jungle . Walk another half a kilo meter to look at ‘ Bhim Chakki ‘ , the stone grinder used by Lord Bhim to make flour . Mythological belief , may be true or may not be , but one wonders who made , who used ,who installed it in this wilderness. I call it wilderness now, what could it have been then ? Worth a thought.
Message for husbands : When it is a NO for the latest movie , a bigger NO for that favourite sizzler in her favourite restaurant , when it is a NO , NO, NO even for shopping , then get ready ---She needs a change . Whisk her away for a small weekend . Away , near home but away from home .
So -------- GET , SET …..GO.
Behind every successful man there is a woman –100 % true. Behind every successful ( not always but we can always hope ) travel writer ( if I can call myself that ) there are two men , one who clicks the photographs and the other who aligns the pics and the prose to give the final shape to the article .Thanks to Asim , my husband and my son-in –law Varun . Itna toh banta hai. ( I still need their services , you see )
People living in and around Vadodara has this lovely get away called Jambughoda—forest reserve and sanctuary . Combine it with half a day at Champaner , declared a world heritage sight . You just need two days ---it will be funfilled with relaxation and togetherness.
About the location , direction , road , Google map will help you .
The rains and winter are appropriate times .Sitting in your cottage verandah with an empty mind and watching the rain is something that we hardly get to do . The hotel will provide you with that hot cup of coffee plus the bhajias for your children , or else drive out , there are road side bhajia stalls , which serve you the same , hot and tasty ( and much cheaper too). Or , in the winter , just wrap a shawl around and laze with the sun on your back and your long-time-not-read paper back in your hand . Nights you can hear the pitter patter of rain drops or feel the still of night in the forest . Pin drop silence with occasional sound of a passing vehicle faraway . It is as if there is only you in the world.
The roads are good , winding , forests on either side , tall trees ,the green foliage is so cooling to your eyes and your system .Now and again you will pass small villages with playing children , a one room school building , tube well by the road , cattle , a shanty shop, a shepherd with his flock ,his colourful turban five times bigger than his head, women folk standing and watching your car pass by .
Jambughoda Forest
Places to stay : - You have government Eco –Tourism centres . They are at Dhanpuri, Bhat and , Targol. They are comparatively cheaper and therefore very affordable. Cottages –both A/C and Non A/C , but be ready for ordinary bed , bedding , bath and cleanliness .Carry a little of bed linen if you are particularly finicky . They are not the stuff you see on the TV –India’s top ten hotels etc. etc. But they are clean .Situated on hillsides you can see green treetops , monkeys , peacocks and bird of different species . For this you have to be an early riser .
Their food is simple and whole some with the Gujarati flavor . You get Gujarati Chai , Poha , Ringan – Bataka ni shak , Makai roti , Khichdi , Kadhi .Menu remains 90% same ,only the sabji changes. Again , all relatively cheap . Doesn’t pinch your pocket . Other places food is costly, variety is more. But ofcourse cost is a relative term. 4 to 5 luxury hotels . Vananchal is on the higher end , but good , if you have children -5 to 15 years of age .There is a swimming pool, rope ladders , swing bridge ,merry –go-round , horse riding, trekking facilities , good restaurant and more. Caravan Sarayi is on the same lines , but much quieter , more close to nature at the foot of a hill. No concrete rooms but caravans to house you with all the modern facilities .
Caravan sarai Lawn
The Maharajah’s palace , a part of which has been converted into a resort is coolly shaded with a lot of trees , peaceful all around . More suitable for people who want to be on their own. You can hear the sounds of the jungle uninterrupted.You order and the food is freshly cooked for you.
Jambughoda Palace
Every place has guides who will take you trekking into the jungles , morning and evening . You can walk by the edge of the water of the dam . Birds you get to see are hornbill , teel , cranes , black ducks . It is fun walking in the jungles . The peace and the quiet is all pervading . It is safe too. It is safe but a guide is a must , other wise losing the way is quite possible .
Are you the religious type ? One who doesn’t forget his hanuman chalisa once a day . Then ‘ Jhand Hanuman ‘ ( well known) is just 12 kms away . Again winding , rough roads between forests that you will find refreshing, provided you ignore the bumpy ride . ‘ Jhand Hanuman ‘ is 21 feet , carved on the wall of a hill , why it is there and who created it, I did not get the answer . You will like it . A religious visit or a piece of sculpture which ever way you look at it you will not regret the ride after the visit . Also because there are two more epic old sites to see.
Few steps further is the ‘ Draupadi Kuva ‘ ( well), created by Lord Arjun ’s bow when Draupadi was thirsty and there was no water to be found in the jungle . Walk another half a kilo meter to look at ‘ Bhim Chakki ‘ , the stone grinder used by Lord Bhim to make flour . Mythological belief , may be true or may not be , but one wonders who made , who used ,who installed it in this wilderness. I call it wilderness now, what could it have been then ? Worth a thought.
Bheem Chakki
Way back, stop at CHAMPANER ---Declared world heritage site .
Champaner ---The village where Mehmood Beghda built mosques of architectural quality –to be seen to be believed . He was called ‘ BEGHADA ‘ because he conquered BEY ( meaning two in gujarati ) GADH ( Fort ) ----the Junagadh fort and the Pavagadh fort .He attacked seventeen times to , finally defeated PATE RAJPUT to earn the title .
SHAHRI MASJID is in the main village . The city gate is the main entrance . It is a long corridor hall with many carved pillars . KEVDA MASJID There is a cenotaph in front of the two minarets . The architecture style is Indo Islamic . There are thirty pillars to support the structure .
EK MINAR MASJID is special because it has only one minar which is unusual .On a big raised platform there are a few graves , broken pillars around . The standing ek minar is a living example of excellent carving.
Way back, stop at CHAMPANER ---Declared world heritage site .
Champaner ---The village where Mehmood Beghda built mosques of architectural quality –to be seen to be believed . He was called ‘ BEGHADA ‘ because he conquered BEY ( meaning two in gujarati ) GADH ( Fort ) ----the Junagadh fort and the Pavagadh fort .He attacked seventeen times to , finally defeated PATE RAJPUT to earn the title .
SHAHRI MASJID is in the main village . The city gate is the main entrance . It is a long corridor hall with many carved pillars . KEVDA MASJID There is a cenotaph in front of the two minarets . The architecture style is Indo Islamic . There are thirty pillars to support the structure .
EK MINAR MASJID is special because it has only one minar which is unusual .On a big raised platform there are a few graves , broken pillars around . The standing ek minar is a living example of excellent carving.
Ek Minar Masjid
MOTI MASJID a little away . You can walk down but a drive would be better . Once again a mosque of architectural beauty . Do not miss the JAMI MASJID .Visited for Friday prayers .They say it was a temple before , Mehmood converted it into the Jami Masjid . The masjid shows the hindu lotus , chain with lamp , the kalpa vriksha , which stand testimony to the fact that it was a place of hindu worship . Jain symbol of the banana flower , jain flag is present . So it is a beautiful conglomeration of hindu , muslim and jain architecture. The main gate is a beautiful example of filigreed walls .
You wonder , what people were they, who could create such beauty in stone . What was that gift that helped them to achieve such perfection . There was some forty students from a college of architecture , drawing the building from different angles . I peeped into some note books . They all started off with good detailed sketches but after some time they became rough sketches , shading and lines which gave an idea of the structure but not the perfect picture. If , we today did not have the skill and patience to put it in pencil and paper , it is beyond our imagination how they cut , chiseled and smoothened stone into such designs centuries ago with no modern tools and mechanisation . All the carvings so beautiful and strong to stand the test of time .
JAMI MASJID
The huge entrance to the Jami Masjid is flanked by two exquisitely carved pillar.You look and wonder. You wonder and look again .You thank the modern contraption called camera which helps you to capture such wonders . Inside , the prayer hall has two hundred and thirty two pillars. As per Ganpat , our local companion , it is almost impossible to count the pillars because one gets confused not knowing whether a particular pillar was counted , missed or counted twice .There is a seperate place for women to pray . Just look around feel the beauty created in stone . You will not even realize how spell bound you have become .
Intricate Carvings at Jami Masjid entrance
JAIN Architecture at ceilings of JAMI Masjid . All the masjids have a well and tank for ambulations before prayer . See the spherical step well called HELLIKAL VAV.
HELlICAL VAV
MANDVI or the custom house is a pillared hall with arched doorways , entrance in the middle and raised platforms on either side where officials sat to collect the taxes . It also serves as a separator of the common’s living areas from the royal enclosure .The circa style architecture is seen here .
PAVAGADH houses the Mahakali temple atop the hill. From the bottom to the top is a three hour climb . Many undertake it as a vow . Otherwise transport is available till Macchi , that is half the distance .Then you can use the rope way or go up by foot .Shops on either side keeps your eyes engaged so you don’t feel the climb. But at the end is the test of your heart and knees--- a steep climb of two hundred and twenty two steps and you are in the presence of Mahakali Maa. On top of the temple is a Masjid . If you take it as peaceful coexistence of two sects it gives you a feeling of togetherness and human bonding . Only seven arches of the Original Champaner fort is located on the Pavagadh Hill.
Pavagadh Hill
Mahakali temple at Pavagadh top
MOTI MASJID a little away . You can walk down but a drive would be better . Once again a mosque of architectural beauty . Do not miss the JAMI MASJID .Visited for Friday prayers .They say it was a temple before , Mehmood converted it into the Jami Masjid . The masjid shows the hindu lotus , chain with lamp , the kalpa vriksha , which stand testimony to the fact that it was a place of hindu worship . Jain symbol of the banana flower , jain flag is present . So it is a beautiful conglomeration of hindu , muslim and jain architecture. The main gate is a beautiful example of filigreed walls .
You wonder , what people were they, who could create such beauty in stone . What was that gift that helped them to achieve such perfection . There was some forty students from a college of architecture , drawing the building from different angles . I peeped into some note books . They all started off with good detailed sketches but after some time they became rough sketches , shading and lines which gave an idea of the structure but not the perfect picture. If , we today did not have the skill and patience to put it in pencil and paper , it is beyond our imagination how they cut , chiseled and smoothened stone into such designs centuries ago with no modern tools and mechanisation . All the carvings so beautiful and strong to stand the test of time .
JAMI MASJID
The huge entrance to the Jami Masjid is flanked by two exquisitely carved pillar.You look and wonder. You wonder and look again .You thank the modern contraption called camera which helps you to capture such wonders . Inside , the prayer hall has two hundred and thirty two pillars. As per Ganpat , our local companion , it is almost impossible to count the pillars because one gets confused not knowing whether a particular pillar was counted , missed or counted twice .There is a seperate place for women to pray . Just look around feel the beauty created in stone . You will not even realize how spell bound you have become .
Intricate Carvings at Jami Masjid entrance
JAIN Architecture at ceilings of JAMI Masjid . All the masjids have a well and tank for ambulations before prayer . See the spherical step well called HELLIKAL VAV.
HELlICAL VAV
MANDVI or the custom house is a pillared hall with arched doorways , entrance in the middle and raised platforms on either side where officials sat to collect the taxes . It also serves as a separator of the common’s living areas from the royal enclosure .The circa style architecture is seen here .
PAVAGADH houses the Mahakali temple atop the hill. From the bottom to the top is a three hour climb . Many undertake it as a vow . Otherwise transport is available till Macchi , that is half the distance .Then you can use the rope way or go up by foot .Shops on either side keeps your eyes engaged so you don’t feel the climb. But at the end is the test of your heart and knees--- a steep climb of two hundred and twenty two steps and you are in the presence of Mahakali Maa. On top of the temple is a Masjid . If you take it as peaceful coexistence of two sects it gives you a feeling of togetherness and human bonding . Only seven arches of the Original Champaner fort is located on the Pavagadh Hill.
Pavagadh Hill
Mahakali temple at Pavagadh top
Climb down with your family. End the lovely sojourn and head home refreshed . You will like this diversion so much , you will be surprised , while you are steering your car, you are already planning the next trip.
Sikha was able to say the above because of the 2 young boys -
- Asim - her part time official photographer and full time husband who turned the blogs from reading in prose to vibrant travel accounts.
- Varun - her part time tech-help center and full time son-in-law who being from the advertising world thought this to be a cool thing to help with .
Please leave your comments below , would love to know what you thought of my above experience .
