Bhuj –The north western most part of Gujarat is 8-hour drive from Vadodara. Tea, lunch and breaks included. With the Rann festival, the roads are divine. You reach Bhuj, the driver and the driven (whatever sense you take it …smirk) are fresh enough to take a walk around the city after a strong ‘Kacchhi’ chai.
The city is small, few roads, lanes crisscrossing and the Hamirsar lake right in the middle of the city, the old part of the city. Shops, restaurants, small eating joints, vegetable and fruit sellers with their carts. Very quickly you have a fair idea about the place. The distances being small just engage your legs and enjoy the small city called Bhuj.
In Bhuj: A detailed, patient tour of Prag Mahalis a must. Detailed because displayed are numerous articles of historical value and patient because see in detail the rich culture that it has restored through the ages in spite of devastation of the earth quake in 2001.
Prag mahal palace was built in the 1860’s and 70’s. It has arches, colonnades, and timber roof. Deep passages, massive staircases, coloured tiled floors are its unique features. Khemraj ji was the founder and it was built to commemorate the coronation ceremony. The Darbar hall has moulded ceilings and huge Venetian chandeliers. The hall has a collection of hunting trophies.
There is a watch tower in the centre with clocks on all four sides atop the tower you have an aerial view of the city of Bhuj. The arches had first brick coloured sand stone, then yellow sand stone followed by green marble and last yellow sand stone again. Each corner, every stretch was so beautiful that it was difficult for my husband to decide what to and what not to photograph. Digital days saved him so, went ahead clicking all that he saw.
Rani Niwas was built 450 years ago. It was heavily damaged by the earth quake and now it is not open to public viewing. What could be seen from outside showed exemplary architecture, designs so beautiful, Filigreed jharokas, pillars, pillar bases, the terrace, the wooden angles holding the terrace were exquisitely carved in wood. What remained in spite of the earthquake was breath taking, then how beautiful it was before the quake you can well imagine and feel proud of the legacy left behind.
Aina Mahal: in the Prag Mahal compound was built in 1740 by Lakhpat ji. He as a unique combination of a poet, musician and military prowess. Pillars and ceilings show beautiful wood work with studded mirrors. It houses the oldest museum built in 1877 Things to look for are----Brass palki inlaid with precious stones , the last ruler Maharana Madan Singhji ’s own minted coins with ‘Jaihind’ printed on one side and his name on the other, old type writing machine, exquisite ivory inlaid jewellery boxes, armoury room standing proud, witness to many wars , the fiercest being the war of 1819 exhibiting swords, axes, spears , pistols and guns.
Plants (dry)preserved and displayed with their botanical names, glass paintings –both Chinese and reverse style, the regions currency—gold, silver, and brass with denominations and their equivalent to the British rupee. E.g., Dholedo, Dhinglo, Kori.4 silver koris were equivalent to one British rupee.
Mina Mahal:A part of the Mina Mahal is the king’s bedroom. Each year a new bed was made and the old auctioned off. The present exhibit has legs of gold. The bedroom mirror boasts of gold plating. As per our guide the walls had gold plating and the creepers and flowers sculptured on it were embedded with precious stones originally. The rosewood carved doors were pieces of art. Such fine wood work should be very rare. Minutely carved ivory door looked more like painting on paper. That was the finesse of the work.
Embroidery, now framed and preserved as panels showed needle work par excellence which gave the impression of painting rather than hand embroidery.
The palace: Everything is grand and great, but don’t forget the following – The typical durbar hall- huge rosewood table, silk upholstered carved chairs, expensive chandeliers, tinted designed glass windows, yellow sandstone and green marble floors. A baby carriage, stuffed heads of hunted animals, a huge Belgian mirror covering the whole wall in the dining hall, whose quality and clarity still shows, the Maharanis dressing table with a chest of drawers and a huge Belgian mirror 5 feet by 8 feet whose crystal clarity dazzles your eyes.
The tower with 83 steps takes us to the top from where the whole of Bhuj city can be seen. The last ruler Maharana Madhav Singh ji in 1948 signed a treaty with the Indian Union by which Kutch became a part of ‘C ‘state, i.e it came directly under the Indian government.In Bhuj :- If you are the shopping- type, the house - maker type, wear- the- latest type, change -the- look - of-your-house – and –self type there is a treasure of things to buy. Cotton, woollen, handicrafts, Bandhej: Saris, dresses, Ghagra-cholis, drawing room sets and bedroom linen. Outside the palace there are narrow streets, which also is the main market. The streets were crowded, cramped on either side by shops selling all that you are looking for. Grocery, gifts, shawls ,dresses, juices , fruits , vegetables, artificial and silver jewellery, paintings , you ask for it and it is there for you to take, at a price of course ( please bear my poor sense of humour )Added to these there were two wheelers, street side hawkers, carts and everything else. How your time flies walking down the streets you will never know. This walk down is total entertainment. There are quite a few restaurants in the city to choose from including Sankalp for those for whom the morning idlis are a must. Have the Kacchhi Dabelis. ‘Bhuj ke dabeli jo khaya woh pachtaya, jo nahin khaya who bhi pachtaya’ Another taste to take away with you are the Bhuj pedas. A speciality of the place. Bhuj pedas- round, brownish, slightly hard and last for 15 to 20 days minimum. Ideal for you journey back home.
Around Bhuj City:- Kachchh Museum: It has an excellent collection of pictures, archaeological finds, weapons, textiles, musical instruments, hunted stuffed animals and more.Swaminarayan Mandir: Bright wood carvings depicting Lord Krishna and Radha. when Swaminarayan was in Bhuj he sat over here.
Away from Bhuj:-Mandvi: One of the most beautiful beaches of Gujarat. Usually crowded as it is spot of local outing. Festival days are best avoided until and unless watching the kacchhi crowd is also in your agenda.
Vijay Vilas palace: Rajput style palace built of red and yellow sandstone was built in 1927.It has---A banqueting table for 21, Belgium glass windows in a verandah which has a bullet hole to test the strength of the glass—it was a clean hole and no cracks. There is a fountain and stage in front of the palace where the royal family and friends enjoyed evening stage performances. The stone architecture, the filigree work of the jharokas, the inlay work of the creepers on the walls, the wooden furniture and other artefacts and displays will make you proud of our past legacy and the life styles of our kings and rulers.
Narayan Sarovar: As legend has, it was created by Lord Vishnu by touching the land with his toe to overcome drought during the puranic times. It is one of the five holy lakes of Hinduism. The others being, Man Sarovar, Pushkar, Pampa and Bhubaneshwar
Koteshwar: It is at the western most part of India. Here the vast dry land meets the vast sea. There is a mention about this land ‘between the Indus river and the Arabian sea’ by the Chinese traveller Huen-tsang. The story behind the temple --- Being happy with Ravana’s prayers he was given a Shivling, which when established in lanka would make him ‘Ajar –Amar’ i.e. he will become disease less and immortal, also he should not by any chance place the Linga down. The deities feared this as it would make Ravan all powerful. But a blessing given cannot be reverted. So Brahmma took the guise of a cow and got himself stuck in theslush during low tide and God became a human being trying to extract the cow. While flying back to Lanka with the Shivling Ravan saw the plight and descended to help the man and his cow. Forgetting the condition (of not putting down the linga) he placed the linga on the earth and helped the person and his cow. Later when he turned to pick up his linga There were ‘Koti (crores) lingas’. Hence the name ‘Koteshwar Mahadev’. He couldn’t recognise the one that was given to him, therefore picked any one among the Koti lingas and thus losing the blessing of being ‘Ajar and Amar’.
Lakhpat: It is famous as the rest place of Gurunanak Ji before travelling to Mecca. Peer Ghaus Mohmmad, a mystic, was buried here. The carvings on his mausoleum has to be seen and the adjoining water tank is said to possess healing powers. The nine domed Sayyed Pirshah’s mausoleum has intricately carved doors, windows and jaalis.
Kali dungar: or the black hills. It is the highest point of Kachchh. The desert and the sky mingle at a distance and become indistinguishable from each other. Pakistan is just 20 Kms away.at the top is a 400-year-old Dattatray temple. It was devastated during the earth quake so now a modern temple stands I its place.
On this hill is the magnetic hill. It is indicated by a board. Our car travelled nearly one and a half Km with the engine shut off. While travelling green fields with yellow mustard flowers and the bundings with their swaying coconut palms bring you memories of Punjab and kerela. Travelling towards Kalidungar ,the land is hostile ,infertile and full of bavaltrees, The roads going up and down hill so much that often the car ahead of you will disappear into the valley. Travelling towards the Rann it is vast stretches of sandy land as far as the eyes can see. Same country and so many varied landscapes.
The great Rann of Kachchh is a salt marsh located in the Thar desert of Gujarat. It is 30,000 sq. km in area. Many have a mistaken notion that the Rann was a vast expanse of white sand. But it is a salt pan. Dhordo village has become a place of tourist attraction for being the largest salt desert in the world with a white sheen. Miles and miles of salt. Salt on the surface and slush below. You stop one and a half Kms away and walk the distance to the great rann. There are camel carts to transport you in case you need them. Breezy. the strong sun above you, the salt all around you, mirages making you feel you are surrounded by water, the wonders of nature stun you.
Do visit Bhujodi 8 Kms away. You can watch weavers, Tie and dye artists, block printer at work. There are roughly 1200 ‘Vankar’ community people engaged in the textile handicraft production. Ashapura crafts, Shrijan are non-profit organisations which help them to market and earn better.
The Rann festival is a collection of large number of tents owned both by Gujarat Tourism as well as private people. There is entertainment at night consisting of local artists presenting dances which show the costumes, depict the culture, back ground, stories of the region. The tents are expensive. If you can afford it then nothing like it or stay in Bhuj and visit the centre in the evening. It also has a shopping area with many stalls selling clothes, artefacts, kacchhi and mirror work, wood and clay work, natural and bio medicines, leather articles and many more. Eating joints serving Gujarati, kacchhi, Rajasthani and of course the inevitable Punjabi food is present.
Green fields. Rocky hills, vast deserts and bordered by the sea, that is Kachchh for you in all its variety and beauty. Is Kachchh now on your itinerary of next visit? If yes welcome.
If still pondering --- go for Kachchh without doubt. There is much more to Kachchh than that meets the eye.
Sikha was able to say the above because of the 2 young boys -
- Asim - her part time official photographer and full time husband who turned the blogs from reading in prose to vibrant travel accounts.
- Varun - her part time tech-help center and full time son-in-law who being from the advertising world thought this to be a cool thing to help with .
Please leave your comments below , would love to know what you thought of my above experience .
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