Mahishmati,
now Maheswar
Maheshwar has architecture which is poetry in stone ,
Pic1.Delicate
architechure of Maheshwar.
A grand
river flowing placidly
which is poetry
in peace,
Pic2.
Quietly flowing Narmada
narrow streets
which has history
written in every nook
and corner. Not at
the top of
‘must visit ‘places’
but definitely in the list
of ‘Do visit ‘ places. If you
don’t visit Maheshwar , nobody will say
you have missed a life time sight
but for sure you
have missed that which
you should have
definitely seen.
Pictures sent by a
friend holidaying there was the deciding factor. Those pictures
of the setting
sun against the span
of Narmada and the silhouette of temples built by
Ahilyabai lured us to
Maheshwar.
Pic
3.Grand view of Maheshwar fort from midstream of Narmada
Maheshwar—Abode of Maheshwar i.e. Lord Shiva is
an ancient town on
the banks of
river Narmada with irresistible
charm. In the ancient
scriptures it is
known as Mahishmati . Scriptures say Raavan was
imprisoned here for six months. It is also known as the ‘Kashi’ of MP.
We stayed at the MPTDC
guest house. A comfortable place ,very
neat and clean, well
kept gardens ,manicured
lawns, simple but delicious
food ( Exotic and fast food
were also available ) and the
most attractive part
is the long
terrace overlooking the flowing
Narmada. Watch the deep ,calm Narmada
while you have
your morning tea accompanied by
freshly made breakfast of
your choice.
Pic
4.MPTDC G.H Terrace overlooking the river.
Pic
5.MPTDC G.H is great place to just relax and watch the river flow by
Sit till
the rising sun
prompts you to go
back to the cool comfort
of your room. If
you are ready
and feel fresh , go
out and walk
down the streets
of Maheshwar.
Pic
6.All Roads leading to Narmada
Have
another tea break
at the road
side tea stalls. Try
their samosas and
Bhajias ( like any
other small town ) if
you are in
the mood.
The streets mainly
showcase the famous Maheshwari handloom silks. Some shops
have looms in
their back rooms .While
you see the
looms working you
can pick up
stuff you like.
It is
a centre of
handloom weaving since 6th century having the
finest handloom fabric traditions. Shops are
well stocked ,and---- this
should bring a smile ,also
affordable. With the regular
‘aam aadmi’ collection if your
palms are itching, exquisite and
expensive ones too are
waiting for you. Keeping your wallet
in mind you will
not be disappointed
but rather walk
out with a smile
on your lips and a
bag full of
purchases swinging in
your hands. Apart from
the numerous fabric shops
the streets have little
else to offer. Evenings give
a festive look as
thelas line up to
tickle your nostrils with the whiff
of street food.
Maheshwar was originally
built by Mughal
Emperor Akbar in 1601.He built
a fort here
in the 15th century.
Pic
7.View of rampart of Maheshwar fort.
It
was taken over
by Malhar Rao
Holkar in the 18th century. Ahilya Bai
during her time
shifted the capital of
the territory from Indore
to Maheshwar. It remained
the capital of the Malwa
region till 1818 during the Holkar
dynasty which flourished most under
Ahilya bai Holkar.Rani Ahilyabai
daughter –in-law of the
Holkar dynasty reigned from 1765 -1796 .
Pic
8.Family Tree of Holkar Dynasty
She was
ready for sati
when she lost
her husband in battle. Knowing her
administrative and
diplomatic skills her
father-in-law urged her
to rule and
continue. She remained dressed as a widow throughout, no colours, no
embroidery. She led a simple life.
Ahilya bai
rebuilt and restored many
temples desecrated and
destroyed by Aurangzeb .Water canals, dharmashalas, roads, baoris were built
in Hardwar, Pune, Pushkar, Puri
and many other places .
Pic
9.Indian Map Showing places of sacred deeds of Ahilyabai.
She rebuilt
the Vishwanath temple in
Benaras in 1750 and
made a replica
of the same in maheshwar so that
people who couldn’t
go to Kashi could pray
in Maheshwar itself and
gain ‘Punya’….blessings. It is built on a terrace overlooking the
Narmada. It proudly shows an exquisitely carved Nandi.
Pic10. Inside view of Maheshwar fort
PIc11.MAHESHAR
temple on the lines of KASHI VISWANATH TEMPLE
If in
a hurry one can
finish Maheshwar in
half a day but
then one hasn’t really
soaked in the ethos
of the place .To really feel
the place at
least two days
are a must. More, apart from
the sights the time
you spend give
you a holiday
in the real
sense ----relaxed and
restful.
Like many
other Indian cities Maheshwar
is also a
city of many
temples.
Pic
12. view of one of the temples from Narmada
Pic13.Two
Very large temples
Pic14. One open Shiva Temple
where we did Puja
Pic15.Grey
color Shiva temple.
Ahilya Bai ghat is the
prime destination.
Pic16.Majestic steps of Ahilyabai ghat
Pic17.View
of steps Of Ghat from top
Pic18.
View of fort Entrance from the boat
Calm Narmada on the surface runs deep.
Pic19.Still waters (Narmada) run deep.
Even when people are around it is not crowded.
Visitors, aarti, boat ride,
Pic20.Boat
ride on Narmada
small vendors are the
daily sights. Locals, priests ,
visitors too use
the ghat to bathe, freshen and
get ready for
temple visit. For women changing huts/
rooms are there.
Ahileshwar temple is in the main fort is dedicated to Lord Shiva. Intricately carved doorways , sidewalls etc.
Pic21.Carving
at the doorway of Ahileshwar temple
Pic22.Carving at the corridor of Ahileshwar temple
Pic23.Ahileshwar
temple
Pic24.Main
Door Of Maheswar Fort From the River bank
over hanging balconies are
a beauty of the
place .
Pic25.Hanging
Balconies of Fort overlooking Narmada
It also has
the ‘Chattri’ of Ahilyabai Holkar built
in 1795.The tomb
is a square structure.
Pic26.Burning
Place of Ahilya bai.
The huge and tall
‘Deep stambh’ is lit during festivals.
The Rajrajeshwar
temple built in
the shape of
an umbrella is
dedicated to Lord
Shiva has the Akkhand jyot which is kept lighted
over a few
hundred years till
today.
The birth
day of Sahasarjun (Emperor,well known Kshatriya warrior known for his strength
and bravery ruled the
kingdom of mahishmati ) is a
big festival which
is celebrated for
three days.
The chattri
at Mahila ghat
is that of
Ahilyabai’s daughter .
Pic27.Mahilaghat
Right in
the middle of
the Narmada is
the Baneshwar Mahadev
temple .A mesmerizing sight
of the temple is just before dusk ,with
the Narmada flowing
around it is like
a picture postcard. It is said to be thousand years
old...It has triangular
walls, a technique so
advanced even at those
times, to protect the walls
from sharp currents.
Pic28.
Baneswar Temple in midstream of Narmada
Pic29.Shrub growth on Maheswhar temple
Pic30.Shrub
growth giving proof of lack of maintenance
The Archaeological Survey of India has now taken over the maintenance of this priceless heritage and in many parts the renovation work could be seen.
The arti is a ‘must
see’. It takes place at 7
PM in
the Main Ghat near the
Shiva temple built
by Ahilya bai. Gives you
the feeling you
are at Dashaswamedh ghat
in Kashi . It appeals to all
tourists, visitors and pilgrims. The
best part that
I liked is that everyone
is welcome to
perform the aarti.
Pic31.Narmada Arti
Pic32.Anybody
can participate in Aarti including me.
Writing on Maheshwar would be incomplete without the mention of Rajwada, which is now entrusted to a trust---Kkargi, created after the year 1947 by the late Maharaja Yashwant Rao Holkar and the government. Ahilya bai lived in this house.
Pic33.
Gate Of Rajwada ,The residence of Ahaliya bai
The ground floor was the office and the 1st floor she used as her residence.
Pic35.Residence
area of Ahilya Bai overlooking Narmada
At the
entrance to the
right is a
huge ornate ‘Palki’ .
Pic36.
Palki Of Ahilyabai at Rajwada
In a cordoned square there are many shivlingas.
In the same area is Balgopal in a gold jhula. She started
the lingeshwara puja so
that all the inhabitants of
her kingdom were blessed
by the Lord. The
population then was one
lakh ten thousand .Puja would
be performed with
mud lingas ,which
after the puja
would be immersed
in the Narmada . Today too the heritage
continues .Between 8.30 t0 9.30
am this puja
is performed by
eleven pujaris.
It cannot
be ‘That is all’, as , can
there be a ‘that
is all’ to your history, your heritage, your culture ?
NO.
We return to our daily
demanding routine. But in times
of quiet and solitude
Maheshwar creeps back
to bring a
sigh and smile
to your lips
as you remember
those days spent
in Maheshwar.
*************
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